Slocan | Back To The Land |

The boy with the pet goat…

As I continue to catch up on blog posts from May of 2015 I leave you with a chance encounter from the British Columbia Kootenays. I met Raphael while taking a short pit stop in the town of Slocan which sits directly on the south end of Slocan Lake. If you ever get a chance to visit this part of Canada, I highly recommend driving HWY 6 between Upper Arrow Lake and Slocan Lake as the landscapes will leave you breathless. As I pulled into a gravel parking lot that sits on the towns lake front, I immediately noticed a young boy casually walking a goat in the adjacent tall grass under a large poplar tree. I assumed it was a large dog; it was the horns peaking over the tops of the grass that gave it away. Curious, I parked my truck and tried not to draw too much attention to my staring eyes as it’s not everyday you see someone walking their goat with a leash. After about five minutes watching the two from the comfort of my vehicle, the boy than picked up the docile animal and placed it in the vehicle that was waiting than hopping into the passenger seat. My eyes met the woman driver and young boy as we simultaneously gave one another a casual wave followed by a friendly smile as they drove past. A little annoyed with myself for not asking about the goat let alone a chance to photograph each of them, I drank some water, admired the glass covered lake and was on my way.

Upon leaving Slocan I decided to cruise up and down a few of the towns empty streets taking in the surroundings and community. As I approached a four-way stop on one of the side streets, I immediately noticed the weathered pickup with the young boy  outside hanging freely upside down on the playground’s monkey bars. I drove past and immediately pulled a u-turn as I took this as a second chance to ask about the goat. As I pulled over I introduced myself just like I would in any small town and soon enough the three of us found ourselves in a friendly conversation. It turns out the young boys name is Raphael Lajeunesse and the woman was his mother; Carmelle. The two are from the Slocan area with Raphael being born at home, in a bathtub and on a piece of land up a back road on the adjacent mountain; Carmelle was quite proud of this. The two have been travelling around the Kootenay area the last couple years “Wwoofing”. Now I had never heard of this word or term before until then. Wwoof-ing stands for World Wide Opportunity on Organic Farms. In short you volunteer your time on any farm (commercial or residential) in trade for accommodation and food. Not a bad trade especially if you’re looking to expand your knowledge when it comes to farming, construction, small production gardening or even horticulture. As I continued to ask questions about their lives and living situation I was starting to get a little resistance from Carmelle as I continued to ask more. I could sense from the start that she was hesitant the moment I started talking to her and I don’t blame her, I would be a little stand offish as well if some random stranger started asking me questions about my life. To lighten the mood, I then focused the conversation towards Raphael and what he enjoyed doing in his spare time.

Raphael being 11 years old loves what any boy his age would; riding his bike, hiking, and learning how to make a proper bow and arrow. One thing that did surprise me was his love for spending time in the garden while looking after his goat along with other animals he has back home. The two live on a quarter section of land (160 acres) in the Slocan Valley that was currently being divided among a variety of families looking to buy and develop each parcel. Each party would receive 8-12 acres to develop  contributing a percentage of their harvest and skills to the community as a whole. If I’m not mistaken that sounds to me like a commune. I honestly didn’t know communes still existed but hey what a cool way to live. Along with living off the land, Carmelle also home schools her son but Raphael was quick to comment his dislikes about certain subjects and that spending time outside was his priority.

When I asked about their plans for the future, Carmelle again was a little reluctant to say exactly “Oh… when Raphael turns 18 we have plans, but it’s our little secret”. I like to think they will find themselves in a remote mountain valley or in some homestead type cabin on the shores of a small glacier lake hidden away from any sort of human footprint, looking after each other and living off the land. Meeting people like Carmelle and Raphael is always an eye-opener, you may not agree with their lifestyle but I can sure respect it and apply some of their free thinking to my own life. I wish them both a very happy life’s journey wherever their goat and a beat up pickup truck may take them.

 

 

 

 

Mathea Dempfle Olin | Back To The Land |

Canada has surfing?

When you think of Canada you may think of hockey, cold winters, mountains, and really friendly people (or at least I do); you don’t think of surfing. Obviously Canada isn’t known for producing world-class surfers on the big stage, however our waves are starting to take notice especially in a places like Tofino. If you have ever visited Tofino I’m sure you’ve see the many surf shops that line the main road as you drive into this small island town. The place is a lot like Alberta’s Canmore with beautiful shop facades, stunning homes, incredible scenery and good food. Instead of mountains you have incredible beaches, national parks, pristine coastline and islands that stretch for hundreds of miles; the traffic in high season however is very much the same.

On Vancouver Island there is a talented community of surfers and one of those talents is little grommet Mathea Olin. Mathea was once a resident of Canmore as her father guides for one of the bigger heli-skiing outfits, but with life, things change and the family moved to the island setting up shop in the heart of Tofino on the shores of Cox’s Bay.

I first found out about Mathea through the surf community as I was reaching out to various surfboard shapers and other craftsmen in the Tofino area. Curious to know more, I reached out to Mathea’s mom and she was thrilled once I told her about the project Back To The Land. Mathea is just like any other kid. She enjoys hanging out with friends, skateboarding, plays various instruments and participates in gymnastics and ballet. When I spoke with her in person, she was a bit shy just like any 12 year old, humble, but as soon as you mention the word surfing, her eyes lit up. When I asked her when she stared surfing, she said “I don’t really know exactly when, but by the time I was eight I was starting to surf beyond the break”.

Mathea was 12 years old when I took her photograph in May of 2015, she tries to surf everyday come rain, snow, or shine and with that level of commitment, it has paid off winning some major titles both on a national and international level. In the summer time she trains in California with her coach and team, and in the winter spends some of her time surfing with friends in Hawaii. She has already been recognized by companies such as Billabong and receives tremendous support from her local community including surfboard company Aftanas Surfboards. I have always wondered, is being a professional surfer unattainable for a young Canadian? You might not think so, but Canada has produced some pretty incredible surfers including Raph Bruhwiler and Canadian champion Peter Devries which I recommend you google because it’s pretty inspiring what these guys have accomplished. With Mathea’s ever-growing list of competition victories it turns out she has her eyes set on becoming a hopeful Olympian for the 2020 games. I didn’t know this but the Tokyo Olympic Organizing Committee is proposing surfing along with baseball/softball, karate, skateboarding, and sport climbing for inclusion in the 2020 Games; they will have an answer by August 2016. There is even talk of her talent that could potentially reach a spot on the World Championship Tour. If this happens, Mathea would become the first Canadian female ever to accomplish this.

I got to spend an afternoon watching Mathea surf from the shoreline. Paddling out past the white water and losing sight of her amongst the break. It was only the turquoise coloured board that made her visible during brief glimpses on each wave she caught. It was absolutely incredible watching what this girl could do, performing cut back after cut back amongst the choppy swell. I look forward (as do many) on where this young athlete will be in five years. Either way her connection to the ocean on both an athletic and spiritual level is inspiring and I wish her all the best in life.

 

 

 

Mathea Olin - Back To The Land

 

Mathea Olin Surfer

 

Mathea Olin Surfer

 

Mathea Olin Surfer

 

Mathea Olin Surfer

 

Lyndon Schiewe | Back To The Land |

Tree planting with Lyndon Schiewe in BC

I met Lyndon through Brian Henderson‘s son as he operates a tree-plating business working throughout the BC Kootenays. My intention was never to go tree-planting, it was more of an opportunity that presented itself while sharing stories over a meal with Brian and his wife. Then, in less than 36 hours I was up at 5am, following a small convoy of rusted pickup trucks down a busy highway, and turning off onto a hidden road that was only visible by a small gap of random trees that lined the highways ditch. After passing over a cattle guard and through a large gate, the road immediately became narrow, rough, and was evident could only be accessed with a 4×4. After 15 minutes of a gradual climb through deep rivets and around various debris, we stopped at a small clearing because the remainder of the logging road we were travelling on was impassable from a partially washed out road. The crew of guys both young and old prepared for the day as small saplings were arranged for each worker into neat piles next to the vehicles. To carry their cache of trees, each worker used a pouch that looks almost identical to a postman’s harness but significantly more robust and pockets that could carry a large dog on either side.
With shovels, camera gear, and trees in hand, we made our way down the rest of the logging road by foot. The trees suddenly opened up and there was nothing but debris and bush. Immediately the crew assembled, instructions were given and each worker was assigned a cleared area of land. Each worker then had to navigate themselves in a grid pattern making sure to plant trees in a way that was efficient, finishing each load of planting at the bottom of their slope section as to conserve energy and time; reloading their cache of saplings and ascending back into the bush; this step was repeated until each section was complete and all trees were in the ground. Tree-planters get paid by how many trees they pant and based on the area they are planting, trees need to have a certain concentration within a 6-10 foot circumference. The terrain itself is nothing short of unforgiving where you’re constantly maneuvering your way over large tree trunks, through heavy dead brush, battling thousands of insects, and vegetation that seems to claw at your limbs stopping you in your tracks. Not to mention, based on how remote the location is, the increased chance of running into a family of bears which I was told happens more than you would think.
Lyndon was one of the workers whom I started following into the bush, watching him navigate himself through the terrain like it was a walk in the park. It turns out Lyndon was born in 1968 in South Edmonton. His families were all farmers, however when he was four years old the family had to move back into the city. In 1993, he moved to the West Kootenays, got into tree-planting at the age of 22 and used it as a way to pursue a lifestyle living in the mountains and abandoning the rat race of the city. He ended up tree planting till he was 30, and then started again at the young age of 44; he was the first of his forefathers that didn’t pursue a life of farming.
When I asked Lyndon more about tree-planting he said ” I generally enjoy work that has some adversity and physicality involved. Planting is something I only do two months of the year so it stays fresh to me and the income is pretty good in those couple of months. The rest of the year I do a ton of chainsaw and brush saw-work which I like more as it’s easier, however less money. Saw-work is more like a regular outdoor job whereas planting feels like a sport where everyday is part of some epic multi-day event where your putting out 12000 calories in a single day”.
When I asked Lyndon of any memorable or crazy stories, he mentioned tree-planting is madness in itself and the crew he works with now is quite tame, but they are very good and efficient. He then went on to say “It’s a formative experience that changes lives whether your young or old”. Lyndon hopes to do this kind of work well into his 50’s where his goal is to have everything paid off, becoming debt and mortgage free. “I have a family with kids who are 10 and 14. My wife works in Salmo as a coordinator for the community centre and Salmo is one of the last great places that hasn’t been overrun and turned into a beer commercial. It gets made fun of a lot and locally many consider it with a patronizing attitude that it’s a little place full of desperation etc… It’s a great place and we are very proud of it”.
Apart from working in the forestry business, Lyndon also ski’s a lot in the winter and coaches a the local kids ski racing team at the Salmo hill. He also plays the drums in a noisy space rock duo called Rainboard which can be found here. He is also involved with  BMX racing as an athlete, coach and founder/track operator of the new local sanctioned track in Salmo.
After my encounter with Lyndon and after spending the day with him, I see a man who is genuinely very happy and proud. A man who pursues a life of curiosity and not losing his ability to get outside, explore and just play.
I hope you enjoyed this story and stay posted as I share another side of Canada that you may never knew existed; … surfing!
Lyndon the tree-planter

Patrick McIvor | Back To The Land

Patrick the Blacksmith

Blacksmiths has been around for hundreds of years, but have you ever seen anyone forge, bend, and form metal by hand with your own eyes? Neither have I until I met Patrick McIvor. I found this man through other locals while I was staying in the town of Ymir. I was asking around trying to find people who are devoted to a craft and creating a living from what they do. When I found out where Patrick’s shop was, coincidently, I had a beer at a local pub in Salmo no more than a hundred feet from his studio two days prior. Also turns out we both share the same birth city of Calgary, Alberta.

I stopped by Patrick’s studio sometime between eight and nine in the morning on no particular day, pulling up to a small building that looked like an abandoned mechanics garage. The exterior was weathered with paint peeling from the exterior stucco, small growth peaking through the concrete slabs out front, and various random small debris outside its open bay doors. As I approached, I saw a man meticulously working on a sheet of copper with a flat ended hammer. The man pulled back his safety glasses and asked “Jeremy?” I replied, “Patrick?”. We both smiled and shook hands. Patrick’s firm hand shake alone was enough to wake you from a night of heavy drinking, gripping my hand like a boa constrictor; sucking the life out of it, only for a brief second before casually letting go. Inside the shop there were pieces of steel and metal strewed throughout on various bench surfaces, which can only be described as organized chaos. The machines Patrick was using were almost a 100 years old along with various other hand tools that have been collected and never discarded; it was though I had stepped back in time.

I explained to Patrick about the project Back To The Land and how I was going to take his photo. I only asked for an hour or so of his time, so while I was setting up my gear, Patrick could continue to work on a copper hood fan he was making for a client of his. As I set up my photography gear I watched him meticulously heat the sheet of copper while gently hammering out small defects and dents in the metal so it all formed into one seamless piece. Growing frustrated on a particular section no larger than a square foot, he pulled it apart and started again from scratch cursing “If I can’t get it perfect the first time, what’s the fucking point”. As the day went on, I asked Patrick more about his life and it turns out by the time he was eight, he already knew blacksmithing was what he wanted to pursue. His first experience working with metal although started in shop class during high school. The school had a forge and anvil which then led to the creation of his first set of knives and axes; this is all it took and he was hooked.

Patrick is a self-taught blacksmith and now resides in Salmo, BC., however before committing to the hammer and anvil life, he dabbled into other areas of work and trade that required some sort of technique, especially the attention blacksmithing required. These other trades included farming, fire fighting, and rock climbing instructor. When he was 29 years of age that’s when the conscious decision was made to commit to the craft full-time. When I asked him if blacksmithing was a dying trade he responded with this. “Blacksmithing is having a resurgence with those who know, are interested and know where to look, but for the most part a large portion of society neither knows we exist or what we are capable of. As the population becomes more educated to whats possible and that we exist, the demand and interest grows daily”.

To see more of Patrick’s work you can visit his website by clicking HERE.

 

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If you’re in Banff between now and March 27th, you can see Patrick’s portrait hanging on the walls at the Whyte Museum all in part of the Exposure Photography Festival.

 

 

Patrick McIvor the blacksmith

 

 

Patrick McIvor the blacksmith

by Jeremy Fokkens

show hide 2 comments

February 18, 2016 - 6:53 pm

Tristan I had the pleasure of learning from Patrick while in Haliburton he’s an amazing smith and a great example of how this craft will stay alive. I learned a lot from him and encourage people to take his example in pursuit of this craft including myself.

February 19, 2016 - 8:58 am

Carter Self taught??? What about going to KSA @ Selkirk College where we were in blacksmithing class together?

Brian Henderson | Back To The Land

Ymir’s most interesting man.

I randomly met Brian Henderson through a series of introductions that all started with the wonderful Michelle Colley (previous blog post). After one introduction after another, a domino effect occurred and within 24 hours of arriving in Ymir, I felt as though I already knew half the town. This is how I came to meet Brian Henderson and his wife Sharon; they live just behind the town off a steep back road that hugs the base of the forest-covered valley. Carla (a local) helped with many introductions within the town of Ymir and suggested a friendly surprise visit to their home would be a great idea. The sudden visit was very brief; Brian and Sharon were intrigued about my project Back To The Land and suggested I return the next day to chat more as they were pre-occupied teaching a group of local kids how to make garden ornaments. The next day, I pulled up to Brian and Sharon’s home noticing my surroundings in more detail. Their home reminded me of something from a children’s fairy tale, featuring a structure similar to a log cabin with colourful stain glass exterior windows. The property itself was quite substantial, surrounded by forest, boasting a large healthy garden out front, several mature apple orchard trees, chicken coop behind the home and a large workshop to the right of the house as you ascend the gravel driveway.

The time was around 4pm and when I arrived, Brian and Sharon were just finishing their day as I found them both under a tree, casually sipping a beer amongst the shade with their two dogs. I joined them and began finding out more about what they do, their story and their wonderful abode hidden in the Kootenays. The conversation with Brian and Sharon was easy and both were very open to answering anything I curiously asked. Brian went on to say “I also have fish”. I was a little confused because gold-fish was the first thing that popped into my head thinking that was a random thing to say, he then added with a small chuckle ” I farm fish”. I enthusiastically asked if he could show me. Brian and Sharon then gave me the million dollar tour that started on a path disappearing into the thick of the forest behind their home. Once past the tree covered trail head, the forest and space within opened up and we continued towards the back portion of their property. That’s when I noticed several ponds and in each pond were hundreds of fish of various lengths and sizes. The ponds ranged in size comparable to a backyard swimming pool, to another ten times its size. The water supply came from the Kootenay mountain runoff and it turns out Brian started this hobby of his since the 80’s. It was quite the operation and something I have never seen before. The system itself looked flawless with a considerable amount of detail and careful planning into its design. Brian reassured me farming fish came with many challenges especially when he had to regularly chase bears and birds away as to not eat his healthy stock.

After the tour, Sharon graciously invited me over for dinner the following day and Brian even agreed to have his photo taken. Sharon expressed her excitement mentioning Brian was not the easiest to photograph given the very few photo’s she or the family had of him. I re-assured them both this was not just going to be a quick photo, but definitely something they would enjoy.

The following night I arrived and immediately started setting up. While I was photographing Brian, Sharon was prepping dinner. Fifteen minutes before sitting down to eat, she handed me a fishing rod and said, “Ok now you need to go catch your fish”. I thought she was joking until she said “No I’m serious and hurry up, dinner will get cold”. With haste, Brian and I went to the backyard and caught six small trout from one of the smaller ponds and brought them to the back door of the home where we gutted, cleaned, and prepared the fish for the BBQ. That night we enjoyed some amazing home cooked food along with some incredible stories upon which I asked to record our conversation because the wine was getting to my head and was worried I wouldn’t remember anything in the morning.

That night I heard stories that could not have been written by Hollywood’s greatest imaginations. I would require hundreds of pages to give you just a taste of what kind of life Brian and his wife have experienced. Brian was born in Victoria, BC and just like any high school graduate couldn’t decide on anything let alone what he wanted to do with his life. With nothing to lose, he hitchhiked onto a freighter and traveled to Japan on a forged Norwegian ID, then sailed across the pacific and landed in Tokyo for what would be the start of many more adventures.

Throughout Brian’s life he has managed to hitchhike thousands of miles around the globe by car, boat, and plane spending several years abroad in his 20’s. He has been mistaken for Davy Jones from band “The Monkeys” which led to several Japanese woman violently fighting over him, to hitchhiking across Canada with a goat that needed to be delivered in the Maritimes. Upon marrying his now wife Sharon, the two hitchhiked from Ireland to Afghanistan (Pre-Russian invasion) and back to England with many stops along the way; working for as little as two dollars a day to help fund their free-spirited lifestyle. One particular story I loved was when the two were hitchhiking in France. One day as they were trying to flag down a ride, they were picked up by a man driving a large windowless van. Once the two hopped into the front seat, immediately they noticed an odour in the vehicles interior. Upon closer inspection, the two turned around and a couple feet in front of their faces was a male African lion with no cage separating them. It turns out the lion was sick, the driver worked for a zoo and was transporting the animal to get treated a few hundred kilometres away.

It was then in the mid 80’s they visited Ymir, fell in love with the place and luck would have it an opportunity arose where they were able to join and buy into a commune. Years later the commune dissolved due to other members leaving, so they bought their share of land out right and have been living off the land ever since.

Ymir is one of those places that finds you rather than you finding it; the locals here survive and thrive. The community is wonderful, supportive, and everyone I met had a story to tell. The town’s energy is infectious and I hope it continues to be a place of community, discovery, and sustainability.

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If you’re in Banff between now and March 27th, 2016, head on down to the Whyte Museum as you can see Brian’s and many other portraits from my Back To The Land project exhibited on the walls.

 

February 15, 2016 - 5:16 pm

Paul Campeau Great article Jeremy, I grew up in the West Kootenays, Fruitvale to be exact. In the mid 1950’s i & my brothers & friends attended many dances in Ymir, it was a great place then as it is now. Keep up the great work.

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